theautolounge.net
January 16, 2018, 05:03:27 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: SMF - Just Installed!
 
  Home   Forum   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5
  Print  
Author Topic: Mikeys 2004 F150 FX4 *Updated*  (Read 10097 times)
heretic
Administrator
Grand Master
*****
Posts: 2069



View Profile
« Reply #30 on: July 10, 2010, 12:11:26 PM »

I need to build another ford.....I have a cool part hanging from the rafters in my garage.....gonna have to bolt it on to something (the mount is for a ford)

Logged

I don't have an attitude problem... You have a "being an asshole" problem
FabZ
Grand Master
******
Posts: 1096


View Profile
« Reply #31 on: July 10, 2010, 12:34:22 PM »

that mount looks like its for a 1987 mustang lx.  bolt it to your bike butt rock
Logged

Hey, I just passed you; and this is crazy. But, I'm in fourth gear, Vtec baby...
heretic
Administrator
Grand Master
*****
Posts: 2069



View Profile
« Reply #32 on: July 10, 2010, 06:32:07 PM »

NO...mount is for a modular engine....Note the sensor hole

bike mount is not an option....I am friends with the guys at magnacharger. if I let any other supercharger company have a place on my bike, I would never hear the end of it
Logged

I don't have an attitude problem... You have a "being an asshole" problem
Imran
So nice to meet you.
Global Moderator
Grand Master
*****
Posts: 2506


So nice to meet you.


View Profile
« Reply #33 on: July 10, 2010, 09:15:21 PM »

NO...mount is for a modular engine....Note the sensor hole

bike mount is not an option....I am friends with the guys at magnacharger. if I let any other supercharger company have a place on my bike, I would never hear the end of it

Why don't you sell it?
Logged
FabZ
Grand Master
******
Posts: 1096


View Profile
« Reply #34 on: July 10, 2010, 09:42:39 PM »

NO...mount is for a modular engine....Note the sensor hole

bike mount is not an option....I am friends with the guys at magnacharger. if I let any other supercharger company have a place on my bike, I would never hear the end of it

tell em it was just lying around and needed a home and you're building your own budget project
Logged

Hey, I just passed you; and this is crazy. But, I'm in fourth gear, Vtec baby...
Mikey
Full Member
***
Posts: 213


Shaaazoooo!


View Profile
« Reply #35 on: September 26, 2010, 01:33:47 AM »

 Grin


So I stuffed a 12" pioneer sub into my truck. Pics soon.  Grin
Logged
Mikey
Full Member
***
Posts: 213


Shaaazoooo!


View Profile
« Reply #36 on: January 21, 2011, 01:15:16 AM »

Still no sub pics, BUT heres a sweet one while fishing of her.

Logged
Moth
Full Member
***
Posts: 246


View Profile
« Reply #37 on: January 21, 2011, 01:21:50 AM »

She's purdy  Grin
Logged

88 Caprice- 305ci/700r4 combo, 75k miles

09 Challenger R/T- 5 speed auto, Stock for now
Kills: 98+ Camaro Z/28, 07 Mustang GT, Mazdaspeed3.
Imran
So nice to meet you.
Global Moderator
Grand Master
*****
Posts: 2506


So nice to meet you.


View Profile
« Reply #38 on: January 21, 2011, 03:12:39 PM »

Want!!
Logged
Oldcarsarecool
Senior Turd Polisher
Administrator
Grand Master
*****
Posts: 4657


A blind squirrel looking for a nut . . .


View Profile
« Reply #39 on: January 21, 2011, 10:33:31 PM »

Great picture with the truck's reflection in the water !  Well done .  .  .
Logged

Mikey
Full Member
***
Posts: 213


Shaaazoooo!


View Profile
« Reply #40 on: July 30, 2012, 01:41:05 AM »

Poor thing has a pretty nasty exhaust leak on passenger header. Looking at a set of stainless headers. Ford racing has a nice set, and obx/jba didn't look bad either. Considered longtubes but for the cost of extra tuning and redoing exhaust I've opted to stick with a bolt up OEM set. I should see some power gains but am not expecting much. Not sounding like its falling apart is good enough for me! Now to save some money, hoping to have it done by end of year.
Logged
Mikey
Full Member
***
Posts: 213


Shaaazoooo!


View Profile
« Reply #41 on: December 30, 2013, 08:56:50 PM »

Hey guys, long time lurking again!

So as for the truck, its recently had the passenger header replaced, OEM (Sorta, its made by Dorman, new studs and gaskets also) as it just wasn't practical to go the S.S shorty route. Sounds brand new again!

Also replaced all shocks with Bilstein 5100 series shocks. Leveled front end up about 2 inches. Still have a 1/4 inch of forwards rake, Pics are coming when its nice ou

Had a set of BFG AT/TKO in 305/65/18s put on, really like them so far, not as good as my Duratracs were. But in the size I wanted... well beggers can't be choosers! Picked them up for just over 1400$.

 Purchased a soft topper to accommodate my dogs with the recent addition to the family. Managed to put a 1 inch tear it while ice fishing, Bit of "Amazing Automotive GOOP" and all is well. Its pretty handy and I love the fact I can fold it down when I need my box. So far I'm desperately trying to figure out WHY I didn't buy one sooner.  

Also tracked down whats been nuking my battery all the time, after disconnecting all the equipment that I've added to eliminate the idiot factor, turns out my command start has been drawing .1+ amps while the truck is completely off. Called a friend that works in the automotive security/audio field to ensure that I didn't screw my truck up pulling the fuses from the module. Removed the fuses and the truck now has a .030 amp draw while completely off. Battery has been trouble free since then.

Since I had my battery issue figured out I finally installed my reverse spotlight, Its wired into the dash with a rocker switch and a 3amp inline fuse. Its a 18w LED and so far its been wonderful. The need for it arouse when trying to back into a section of trees that turned into a black abyss. Its also been handy for loading up fishing stuff/ working behind the truck. Its mounted up on my hitch receiver out of the way from rocks ect. It also survived being slammed into a frozen snowbank today... Which leads me to a series of questions...

When I goosed on the throttle while up to the headlights in snow, I managed to blow my dipstick out of the tube and PLASTERED the engine bay with oil... Noticed it was missing an O-Ring, tossed a new one on. Am I safe to assume that this mess was just from the lack of the O-Ring? I'm guessing once the oil pressure built up with me to the floor boards it took the easy way out.

Also have two CELs, P0060 which is sensor two, bank two heater current, and a P2272 which is sensor two, bank two sensor stuck lean. I'm guessing I just need to replace the O2 sensor and all will be well again.

Truck is also throwing an airbag light, I think the code was 4-2, some reason front impact sensor comes to mind. Easy fix to my understanding?

Cheers guys
« Last Edit: December 30, 2013, 11:07:10 PM by Mikey » Logged
Oldcarsarecool
Senior Turd Polisher
Administrator
Grand Master
*****
Posts: 4657


A blind squirrel looking for a nut . . .


View Profile
« Reply #42 on: January 01, 2014, 12:05:28 AM »

Welcome back !  Good to hear all is well.  If I remember right, Ford spec for key-off draw is 50 milliamps, (.050 amps).  If you were getting 100, that explains your draw.  I'm not familiar with blowing the dipstick out of the tube.  Not having an o-ring could explain oil under the hood.  But I don't see how it could explain blowing the dipstick.  My limited understanding says that you have pressure building in a part of the engine where it shouldn't be, (i.e. excess blow-by).  Not having an o-ring on the dipstick would allow this pressure and some oil to escape.  Is your PCV system functioning normally ?

I did a brief search for P0060.  The one pinpoint test posted online deals a lot with checking for wiring problems, (i.e. shorts to power or ground, or open circuits).  But keep in mind that you are more likely to see a component fail more than a harness problem.  As with any lean code, the first thing you need to do is check for vacuum leaks.  

I am also wondering if a possible blow-by issue is related to this.  I don't have any heavy line experience.  You may want to ask a few questions at your dealer.  A Ford Senior Master should be able to give you an idea with what may be happening.  The possibility always exists that a greater problem is lurking somewhere.

The LFC you are seeing, "42," appears to be something related to one of the primary crash sensors.  If you are getting a LFC, (Light Flash Code), your restraint control module should also be storing "B" codes, which should direct you to a specific pinpoint test.  You may have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer for diagnosis.  Ford's IDS can do things the generic scan tools can't, (which is by design).  

Good luck with it .  .  .
« Last Edit: January 01, 2014, 12:10:03 AM by Oldcarsarecool » Logged

Mikey
Full Member
***
Posts: 213


Shaaazoooo!


View Profile
« Reply #43 on: January 01, 2014, 01:10:41 AM »

I've heard of a few guys having issues with that o ring missing, so for now I've just replaced it and can't seem to replicate the issue. Both times that I've had the dipstick come unseated was at high RPM. As far the PCV valve goes I've been told it has one it doesn't have one ect. Some sort of a heater/PCV valve combo thats built into the valve cover. Playing the wait see game for now. Must admit, smelling burning oil in the middle of no where wasn't a good feeling!

In regards to my sensor codes, would I be foolish just to replace it seeing as both codes are coming from the same sensor? Biggest question I've got on my mind is how hard are they to remove? Being an exhaust component i can see them being rather miserable. Incidentally this code/ sensor is coming from the side with the new header. Is it possible that the oil used to protect the header in storage fouled the sensor somehow when it burned off? Will mention the code showed the day after replacing the header.

Thank you for the reply OCAC. Pics pending when the weather plays nice.
« Last Edit: January 01, 2014, 01:15:23 AM by Mikey » Logged
Oldcarsarecool
Senior Turd Polisher
Administrator
Grand Master
*****
Posts: 4657


A blind squirrel looking for a nut . . .


View Profile
« Reply #44 on: January 01, 2014, 11:31:19 AM »

I remember on the old trucks, (and just about every "old" vehicle), the PCV is the small valve-thing that sits inside a grommet in a valve cover and rattles when you shake it.  I see now with the newer trucks, the PCV valve has been replaced with a series of components that are integrated into the intake manifold.  I found this thread that gives a good description of the system .  .  .

http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/348613-pcv-valve.html

Regarding the sensor, I was thinking the same thing - both codes are for the same sensor, so it can't hurt to replace it.  The deciding factor would be its cost.  If I'm reading your post correctly, your code points to the downstream sensor on bank 2.  This would be the sensor for the driver's side bank that would be either behind or in the middle of the catalytic converter for that side. 

The OBD II automobile has an O2 sensor in front of the cat. (upstream), and an O2 sensor behind the cat. (downstream).  In years past, the downstream sensor has been referred to as the "catalyst monitor," because of what its job entails - monitoring whether or not the cat. is doing its job.  I've never had a problem removing an O2 sensor.  Generally there is enough heat in that area to quickly evaporate any moisture.  As far as contaminating the sensor, I guess it's possible.  Other factors to consider are how old the previous sensor was, and how many miles has it seen.  Lots of heat up/cool down cycles causes stuff to wear out.  Also make sure that the sensor wiring isn't laying on top of the exhaust pipe .  .  .
« Last Edit: January 01, 2014, 11:33:00 AM by Oldcarsarecool » Logged

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5
  Print  
 
Jump to:  


Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines LLC
SimplePortal 2.2 © 2008-2009
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!